Adventure Across the Simpson Desert: Veterans Lead Civilians on an Epic Journey
Great things happen when veterans support each other, and that statement rang true during the 2024 Frontline Safari trek across the Simpson Desert.
A group of military veterans, of all ranks and varied service backgrounds, took on the remarkable task of escorting civilians, first responders, and other ex-military personnel on touring dirt bikes and 4WDs across the desert on a six-day adventure.
Many Australians will be aware that the Simpson Desert is the fourth largest desert in Australia, but few know it is actually the largest parallel dunal desert in the world, spanning over 176,500 square kilometres. It’s more commonly known for its towering red dunes and breathtaking sunsets and as a land of extremes. Temperatures can soar during the day and plummet at night, presenting unique challenges for travellers of varying experience levels. While this terrain posed its own challenges, for the Frontline Safari team, taking a mixture of civilians, ex-military personnel and first responders through this landscape was a significant challenge. As has happened in previous tours, what began as an expedition turned into a transformative experience filled with camaraderie, laughter, and unforgettable memories for people looking for adventure. For many of those who signed up for this trek, it was their first venture into such a harsh environment, placing their trust in the military veterans and other support staff to guide them through both physical, mechanical and psychological hurdles.
The First Night: Maree Pub, South Australia
The evening prior to setting off, the entire group gathered at Maree Pub in the South Australian outback. With its rustic charm and rich history, the pub served as more than just a meeting point; it was a symbol of the journey ahead. Its walls, adorned with photographs and memorabilia, told tales of the outback, and the Frontline Safari travellers were about to add their own chapter. While there was the obligatory briefings on safety and the medical plan, as well as introductions to the staff members who would accompany them, soon everyone was sitting down to dinner with the opportunity to try one of the pub’s famous camel burgers. This informal first dinner set the tone for the journey ahead, highlighting the strong sense of camaraderie among the military veterans and staff running the activity. Instead of icebreaker activities, there was simply a chance to enjoy a few beers together, allowing participants to ask questions about the trip or even about the backgrounds of the staff who would be guiding them. By the end of the evening, everyone knew the start time and route for the next day.
owever, before the participants called it a night, the staff reinforced the reality of why the riders were on this tour in particular. Frontline Safari aims to promote a better understanding of service life and sacrifice to those on the ride by sharing experiences of military service with the group. The first story shared was of a World War I soldier, known to only a few in the group, whose life and death in service to our nation was honoured. Each evening from this point on, a new story of a fallen serviceman or woman would be dedicated to the next day’s ride, highlighting the struggles and sacrifices that soldiers have faced both at home and abroad.
Day One: Maree to Oodnadatta
As dawn broke the next day and last-minute vehicle preparations were complete, it was time for the adventure to commence. Excitement filled the air as the riders and drivers gathered around. The hum of nervous small talk mingled with the aroma of fresh coffee and bacon wafting from the kitchen. There was no point in driving on an empty stomach, and Maree Pub certainly didn’t disappoint with their breakfast that day.
With full bellies, the Frontline Safari tour was ready to depart. After a quick group photo, the dirt bikes led the way, followed by the 4WDs, each vehicle laden with supplies—tents, food, and importantly, plenty of water. The convoy included a modified 6×6 army Land Rover, a robust support vehicle that many reading this might recognise for its reliability and utility in defence, ensuring that mechanical help was always within reach.
The going was easy along the Oodnadatta Track, a renowned outback route that once served as a lifeline for the Overland Telegraph. With its endless horizons and occasional breathtaking scenery, the track promised an adventure filled with challenges for those inexperienced in gravel road driving; however, thanks to recent grading, that would not be a problem on this trip.
The first driving stint allowed the riders to test their bike setups and the 4WD drivers to check their tire pressures, soon coming across a small desert oasis, Coward Springs. Here, we were greeted by the inviting sight of a natural aqua thermal pool—more like a spa in size, actually—but a warm spring that offered a refreshing escape from the arid landscape. The site also features a beautifully restored railway hut, a nod to the area’s historical significance, and is popular among many caravaners. A few riders dipped their feet into the pool, but with mechanical adjustments needing to be made to bikes and a long day ahead, it was soon time to continue.
Around midday, with the temperature still in a comfortable high 20s, the convoy pulled up at the town of William Creek for lunch. Nestled in the heart of the South Australian outback, this town was used as a railway watering and service point on the Great Northern Railway back in the 1800s, later becoming a midpoint for refuelling WWII aircraft manufactured in the south on their way to northern Australia. It is a small town with an airstrip, several campsites, and now, importantly, 4G Telstra service—a rarity in the outback. William Creek also has a hotel renowned not only for its hospitality but also as a place to buy beer and perhaps that last-minute face net for the pesky flies that would become our traveling companions. Not letting these buzzing nuisances dampen anyone’s spirits, participants battled the flies first with annoyance, then with laughter as this amusing struggle began to build a sense of team cohesion, with everyone helping one another keep the flies off the BBQ spread laid out for lunch.
This team work and laughter marked the beginning of something larger, as conversations flowed more freely. Riders and drivers expressed their admiration for this dose of reality away from the normal comforts of daily life. For now, their shared discomfort reinforced the bonds being formed—something many in the military know all too well.
With appetites satisfied and spirits high, the group set off for the next stop: to explore the remnants of the Old Ghan Railway, breaking up the afternoon’s leg. This historical railway played a significant role in connecting remote communities and facilitating trade across the outback; its story is a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance.
As the sun began to dip below the horizon, the convoy rolled into the Oodnadatta Roadhouse, our overnight stop for the first night. This large pink roadhouse is simply unmissable in the desert landscape—a full day’s ride/drive from Maree.
Inside that evening, the atmosphere buzzed with energy as everyone mingled after completing the first full day on the road together, sharing stories of the day over cold drinks and the usual dinner menu found in any pub. A team was being formed.
Day Two: Oodnadatta to Mt Dare
After another great breakfast of bacon and egg rolls, we hit the road, making some distance from our campsite. This leg was filled with wide-open roads and very few caravanners, as Mt Dare is not a destination for the usual grey nomads with large vans. Many riders opened up the throttles and enjoyed the freedom of the well-graded road, keeping the sweep riders (the staff on bikes at the front and rear) busy.
Lunch by the Eringa waterhole was the main stop of this leg, allowing people time to swim, even if the water was quite cold. This stop was not only a chance to cool off but also a moment for connection. Participants began sharing stories about their past riding experiences and careers, highlighting the rich diversity within the group. Those not brave enough to take on the water enjoyed the first of the marinated chicken wings and salad, but it was impossible to shake the desire to get back on the road and reach our destination. Unlike the first day, this leg was more about the destination, as Mt Dare would be the place where we would set off to cross the desert dunes.
By the time the group reached Mt Dare that afternoon, everyone first refuelled and it was time for tea at the pub. This pub used to be the homestead kitchen of an old cattle property up until the 1980s, when the area was taken over by the Department for Environment and Natural Resources. For a pub that is literally in the middle of nowhere (10 km short of the NT border and almost exactly in the geographical centre of Australia), it has everything you would expect to find in any city pub, but with that isolated country charm. Past travellers have adorned the roof with T-shirts or stickers from their adventures—all for a fee, of course. A donation that would be put towards the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the lifeline for medical help in these remote parts.
That night, the last of the apprehension among the participants seemed to fall away. Now into our second night on the road together, the barriers of formality had dissolved, replaced by a warm camaraderie that encouraged everyone to speak freely and enjoy each other’s company.
Day Three to Five: Mt Dare into the Simpson Desert to Birdsville
It was time to enter the desert, and excitement buzzed through the group. Coffee, cereal, or bacon and eggs were served by the staff, getting everyone ready for their first day driving through the dunes. It is quite a trek to get to where the sand meets the open plains, and by mid-morning, the riders were all ready for a break before the dunes began. Fortunately, around 80 km out from Mt Dare, there is another waterhole, which is also a thermal pool. Dalhousie Springs is naturally heated, with water flowing deep from within the ground, keeping the temperature around 35 degrees year-round. Most took the plunge into the soothing waters, and the atmosphere shifted from one of excitement about what lay ahead to relaxation. This area has an established rest stop with toilets and parking, making it the perfect place for morning tea. Once again, the support vehicle towing the BBQ sprang into action, preparing tea, coffee, and biscuits for all while everyone swam and enjoyed the water.
Laughter echoed as everyone splashed around, not realizing at first that hundreds of tiny fish were happily nibbling at them while they relaxed. This, along with the warm waterhole, would take some getting used to.
It was time to put flags on the vehicles and get ready for the sand dunes. These flags are mandatory in this section of the trek to help avoid vehicles coming from the opposite direction. From this point on, we would be driving/riding on the French Line, one of the few tracks that cross the Simpson Desert, named after a French petroleum company that wanted to chart the desert for geophysical prospects. The adventure riders on the bikes would be earning their keep, as any dirt bike rider will tell you, sand dune riding is taxing on the body. This was, of course, in direct contrast to the customers and support staff in the 4WDs. Air conditioning, music, and cold drinks flowed while those of us sensibly in four wheels enjoyed the scenery of the Simpson Desert with its seemingly endless rolling dunes. Surprisingly, there was much greenery thanks to recent rains that had brought forth patches of lush vegetation—a stark contrast to the barren landscapes typically associated with the Simpson. Wildflowers bloomed, and the occasional sighting of emus and dingoes added to the excitement.
However, this smooth sailing would not last long, and soon the first vehicle fell victim to a double tire puncture—a reminder of the desert’s unpredictability. As the group of 4WDs gathered to assist with changing the tire and plugging the other, no staff were required to help, highlighting the group’s newfound camaraderie and bond. What could have been a frustrating setback turned into a moment of teamwork, with everyone pitching in to get the vehicle back on the road. The experience reinforced the lesson that challenges can be overcome together—a theme familiar to those of us in the military, but one that this group of travellers had now come to understand as well.
The job of the 4WDs would be to stay at the back of the convoy, acting as support vehicles, ferrying food and water to riders and carrying their tents and personal bags for the end of each day’s desert dune riding. Each night in the desert both the riders and drivers alike would come together as a group and sit around the fire enjoying a dinner of steak or chicken burgers. Many participants shared stories of struggles from the day’s adventures, especially those on the bikes who all had their own tales of adversity, as well as the shenanigans between drivers and co-drivers in the vehicles. Perhaps the standout moment came when Chris and Al from the Imposter Podcast recorded what could be the first-ever podcast from the centre of the desert. They interviewed some of the staff, capturing their unique stories and experiences of these individuals during and after service life and what had brought them to be here—in the middle of nowhere.
By the third day in the dunes, our final day crossing the desert, we made it to Poeppel Corner, the intersection of Queensland, Northern Territory, and South Australia, conveniently around morning teatime. Everyone was treated to cheese and biscuits for a snack but being a bit early for the wine to come out, we kept pushing on. Our destination that day was the Birdsville pub, and we had plenty of sand driving/riding ahead, not to mention crossing Eyre Creek, our first and last river crossing of the trip. Before getting that far, the bike riders up front came across a convoy of grey nomads in hired campervans. They were stuck, unable to drive over a large dune in the heat of the day when the sand was at its softest. As the Frontline Safari vehicles caught up, the crews sprang into action, helping each campervan over the rise with snatch straps and winches until they were safely on their way again. This unplanned event took considerable time from our schedule, but it was the right thing to do.
By the time we reached Eyre Creek, it was flooded, necessitating a detour, so the group had to reroute to a crossing to the north. This section is wider and has a rocky bottom, allowing for the entire convoy to cross, with the sweep riders leading the way to ensure everyone crossed safely.
As late afternoon turned into evening, the team came to the final obstacle: Big Red. This is the largest sand dune of the crossing, and from here, you can see out across the plains all the way to Birdsville. Mobile phones came to life as reception was once again restored, and many sent updates and photos to loved ones. However, as the day wore on, time was limited on this iconic mountain of sand, so the group moved on, arriving in Birdsville in time before the kitchen closed.
While this final day had not gone as planned—with a few bike punctures and the need to help our grey nomad friends—when has everything ever gone according to plan and we had adapted and made each situation work? By this point in the trip, everyone was looking forward to a shower and an early night. Even though the desert and Big Red had been conquered, the convoy had one last day of driving down the Birdsville Track to get back to the Maree starting point.
Day 6 Birdsville to Maree:
A day of solid driving down the famous Birdsville Track lay ahead. After the slow, deliberate riding in the dunes, the Birdsville Track allowed the bikes to open up the throttles and get back into it. Lunch was at the little-known Mungerannie Hotel, almost exactly halfway for the day, and if you ever get there, you must try the Mungerannie burger.
Later that afternoon, the last of the support vehicles pulled into Maree, and the group jumped into action, assisting with unpacking personal equipment and putting bikes on trailers. The adventure had unfortunately come to an end, although there was one final formality to complete. On this last evening, an auction was conducted, raising thousands for Salt Water Veterans, the beneficiary of the money raised by the attendees of the Frontline Safari ride. This money would be put to good use in helping veterans find purpose and connection again on the water.
As the final night in Maree went on, many reflected on their journey—what had started as a mix of random paying customers and ex-military support staff was now one cohesive group. The stories shared on this last night may have been embellished somewhat, but they were filled with laughter, tears, and the realisation that they had overcome not just the challenges of the desert on a personal level, but many had come to a deeper understanding of what service life is like for so many in the ADF through the stories told by the staff. For many civilians, the journey had ignited a sense of adventure they had known they wanted but had not acted on before, while the veteran staff found joy in mentoring and supporting their fellow travellers, discovering purpose in service once again.
If you are interested in attending the 2025 Frontline Safari as a rider or with your 4WD, more information can be found at www.frontlinesafari.com.au | 0435 919 214
info@frontlinesafari.com.au
Rod Henderson
To view article in the summer issue and all the images https://www.dutyfirst.com.au/digital/Duty_First_Summer_2024/Duty_First_Summer_2024.html#p=52
